In Lorient, taking the train can now save you money
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Published on 6/12/26
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Benjamin, aka Tolt on the networks, recently had the opportunity to travel to Swedish Lapland! In this article, he shares his best travel tips with you.
Almost 10 years after my first discovery of Swedish Lapland in November 2015, I had the joy of returning to Abisko with my whole family. This small town in the far north of Sweden, in the Arctic Circle, has become one of the world’s top spots for observing the Northern Lights, attracting tens of thousands of tourists every year. These two trips allowed me to test many experiences on-site and travel under fairly different conditions each time. So in this article, I'm going to share with you all my tips and a few mistakes to avoid. But first, a little video of my first trip to the Far North (please bear with me, I was just starting out with video making back then and more importantly, I still used to fly at that time...).
Abisko’s origins date back to the construction of the Malmbanan railway line between 1899 and 1902. This ambitious project, which involved digging a tunnel through the Njullá mountain, required a large community of workers who lived on-site for several years. A temporary hydroelectric power plant, built on the Abiskojåkka River, provided the energy needed for the work.
In 1903, shortly after the completion of the railway line, the Swedish Tourist Association (STF), transformed an old engineer’s house into a refuge for travelers. Over the years, this place has grown to become a major tourist hub. Today, Abisko is considered one of the top destinations for travelers wishing to experience the Far North, thanks to several undeniable assets.
Abisko, its lake, mountains and northern lights
While there’s always a risk of not seeing them, Abisko offers very favorable weather conditions for observing the Northern Lights. Thanks to the surrounding mountains and lake, the area benefits from a microclimate called the blue hole, which refers to a much clearer sky compared to the surrounding areas. A clear sky is, of course, one of the main conditions for witnessing these atmospheric luminous phenomena.
Another essential point: Torneträsk, the large lake bordering Abisko, the proximity to the national park, and the inhospitable temperatures mean there are very few buildings around and therefore very little light pollution. After just a few minutes spent in total darkness, your eyes will be better able to detect even faint Northern Lights.
With its eponymous national park, surrounded by spectacular landscapes combining majestic mountains, forests, canyons, lakes, and crystal-clear rivers, Abisko is the perfect destination for nature lovers. The famous Kungsleden hiking trail begins here, and can be skied or snowshoed in winter. In summer, the midnight sun illuminates endless days, ideal for exploring the unique flora and fauna of Swedish Lapland. But even during cold season, you can spot amazing wildlife. We were lucky enough to spot moose during a Nordic ski tour!
To get to Abisko from France, there is no direct train. You will need to make one or two stops in Germany.
For the 100% night train option (departing from Paris), you can start by boarding the Nightjet ÖBB Paris-Berlin, then two other night trains from Berlin to Stockholm, then Stockholm to Abisko. The major advantage of this itinerary is that it saves you a few hotel nights and gives you the chance to visit Berlin and Stockholm for at least one day.
Alternatively, you can take daytime trains to Hamburg via Cologne or Frankfurt, for example. From there, you can board a night train that will take you directly to Stockholm.
For detailed itineraries from Paris, Marseille, Lyon, Toulouse and other major cities, click here.
Be aware that there are two stations in Abisko: Abisko Östra and Abisko turiststation. They are about a 30-minute walk from each other, so not really a major problem, but it’s better not to get confused when carrying your luggage! Don’t worry though, I’ll help you choose where to stay in the next section.
In 2015, my friend and I stayed on the eastern side (Östra in Swedish) at the Abisko.net.hostel. We chose this accommodation because its dormitories were rather inexpensive, and I still have fond memories of it. It’s worth noting that there are also private rooms for two and a sauna. The other advantage of staying at Östra is that there is a supermarket.
This year (2024), my family and I stayed directly at the STF Tourist Station, located at the heart of Abisko National Park. There is a hotel, a youth hostel with dormitories, and also individual cabins for 6-7 people, complete with a living room, kitchen, and bathroom. We opted for the latter, and to be honest, it was just perfect. We had a superb view of the lake, were able to take advantage of the activities offered by STF (which I'll detail below) and their facilities while being quite independent.
At STF Abisko Turiststation, you'll find plenty to eat and drink at :
Both establishments offer good food at reasonable prices. For example, the all-you-can-eat lunch buffet at Kungsleden costs 165 SEK, or around €14. And as is the case almost everywhere in Sweden, vegetarian and gluten-free options are always available.
Note that the Fjällboden shop also allows you to buy or rent equipment: skis, snow boots, camping gear, etc. A full price list is available here.
In short, if you’re on a very tight budget, Abisko Östra might be a better option, as you can find slightly cheaper accommodations and do your shopping at the supermarket. However, if you can afford it, I recommend booking a bed at STF Abisko Turiststation, as you’ll be directly in the heart of the national park, and you’ll likely have more opportunities to meet people while enjoying a wide range of activities independently or with a guide.
In winter, despite the very short days, there's still plenty to do in Abisko. That's why I recommend that you stay for at least 3 or 4 days to really soak up this wonderful destination. Here are the activities I was able to try out, in order of preference.
The must-do activity is, of course, to go hunting for the Northern Lights. When I say "hunting," I mean it. To maximize your chances of seeing this phenomenon, you need to put in the effort. Be prepared to spend hours in the cold, gazing at the sky. While there are many apps today that provide useful information, it’s not an exact science, and it’s best to stay alert, as the lights don’t give a heads-up before appearing.
For this activity, I don’t recommend taking a guide because it doesn’t offer any guarantees of seeing the lights. The key is to get away from light pollution, bundle up, bring thermos flasks with hot drinks if needed, and keep your eyes on the northern sky. During my first trip in 2015, we were advised to go to the lake shore if we wanted to see reflections. This can indeed give your photos a whole new dimension. Despite a small mistake with the focus, it’s still quite beautiful, don’t you think? 🙂
One of my first photos of the northern lights
During our last trip, we tried Nordic ski touring, an activity offered by STF that costs 815 SEK (around €70) per person. This price includes a guide, equipment, and a snack with biscuits and hot drinks. The outing lasts 3 hours, and the group is limited to 12 people, so it remains a fairly small. The big advantage is that no prior skiing or any snow sport experience is needed.
Honestly, it was fun, and quite reassuring for some, to do it with a guide, but I think it’s entirely possible to go without one by simply renting equipment and wandering around the national park. The only thing to be cautious of is not to start too late, as night falls early in winter.
After a day in the Arctic cold, what better way to warm up than a good sauna? About a 20-minute walk from the station (accommodation and restaurants) you'll find a small wooden cabin on the shores of Lake Torneträsk. It houses an authentic Scandinavian wood-fired sauna, with a large window facing the magnificent crystal-clear waters surrounded by mountains. It’s the perfect way to relax while enjoying the landscapes. I absolutely loved the experience, as it felt like we were alone, lost in the wilderness, and thanks to the windows, we wouldn’t miss any possible Northern Lights. For this activity , the cost is 2,950 SEK (about €260) for up to 10 people. Each additional person costs a further SEK 295.
Having a fine-dining experience at 900 meters altitude with a view of the Abisko National Park and the Northern Lights dancing in the sky sounds dreamy. But unfortunately, that’s not quite how it went for us, so it’s best to be prepared. We had a great evening, the meal was excellent, and we understand that delivering food by chairlift is complicated, but the experience is very expensive. For this exceptional dinner, you’ll pay 2,225 SEK (about €200) per person, and drinks are not included. The package includes:
With better weather and more Northern Lights, the experience would have been different, but honestly, we felt that the guide didn’t add much value. We were given a brief explanation about the Northern Lights and then a short walk around the station.
In summary, I recommend this experience if you can afford it or want to celebrate a special occasion. But beware, if the sky is covered, the "Plan B" proposed by the guide can be rather disappointing.
On my first trip in November 2015, unfortunately there wasn't enough snow in Abisko for a dog sledding excursion. But the activity is offered by abisko.net, the hostel where we stayed.
From Abisko, you can also take a train to Kiruna or Narvik in Norway. In Kiruna, which is considerably larger than Abisko with a population of over 20,000, you'll find many more shops and activities. We went bowling there on our trip in 2015 (yes, you have to find something to do when it's dark 18 hours a day! 😁), but there are also plenty of outdoor activities available.
And there you have it, enough for a memorable stay in Abisko! And if you want to go further afield, take a look at our itineraries for Norwegian Lapland, including North Cap.
Benjamin Martinie - aka Tolt en voyage - est réalisateur, Youtubeur et auteur spécialisé dans le voyage depuis plus de 10 ans. Il s’est d’abord fait connaître avec sa série "Don’t go to…”, tournée caméra au poing aux quatre coins du monde. Ces vidéos, visionnées plusieurs millions de fois et saluées par la critique, ont été relayées dans de nombreux médias (France Info, Nat Geo, Le Point...) et distinguées par plusieurs prix ou nominations (Travel Video Awards, Resistance Film Festival...).
En 2019, il prend un virage décisif et renonce à l’avion pour se consacrer au voyage responsable. En 2023, il fonde HOURRAIL !, le média communautaire de référence sur le voyage bas carbone qui rassemble aujourd'hui plus de 500 000 passionnés sur ses différents réseaux sociaux.
A travers ses articles, ses vidéos et interviews d'experts, il décrypte avec rigueur et pédagogie les enjeux liés au tourisme, au climat et au transport ferroviaire. Son objectif : prouver qu’on peut voyager et être heureux, sans prendre l’avion.
