Hautes-Alpes: a 2-day car-free ski touring micro-adventure from Paris

Written by Sophie Renassia

Published on January 29, 2025

Want to breathe in the mountain air and take in the sights for a 2-day getaway? Benjamin, aka Tolt, has tested a superb micro-adventure in the mountains from Paris, between mountain huts, snow-covered landscapes and ski touring! And the good news is that you won't need to take the car once from Paris. All aboard for the magnificent Southern Alps, in France's highest department: the Hautes-Alpes.

Paris to Névache (Hautes-Alpes) by night train

To get to Névache from Paris, simply take an overnight train to Briançon. After a good night's sleep, you'll arrive at the station at 8.20 am. From there, a shuttle bus will take you to Névache in just 35 minutes (line 7 Briançon-Névache).

On the way, you'll be able to get away from it all: the bus runs alongside a small river, and you'll be able to see beautiful landscapes and authentic villages through the window!

Day 1: ski touring and overnight at the Buffère refuge

Ski touring from Névache to the Buffère refuge

Ski touring* up to the Buffère refuge takes around 1h30. The gentle ascent is via the groomed Haute Vallée de la Clarée road. To the left of the “refuge Buffère” sign, you'll need to cross the Clarée at the Rately bridge, where a more sustained ascent (approx. 45 minutes) awaits you to the refuge.

*If you don't have any equipment, don't panic: you can rent all your ski touring gear, plus a safety pack (shovel, probe, avalanche transceiver, etc.) directly from the Névasport store in the village of Névache.

You'll then discover a charming alpine chalet nestled at 2076m altitude, the refuge de Buffère, run winter and summer since 1990. To find out more about the Buffère refuge, we invite you to read our article on the best refuges to discover in the Hautes-Alpes!

Photo : © Cédric Tempier - Head for the Buffère refuge!

Ski touring around the refuge via the Buffère Trace

Just enough time to put down your gear and grab a snack, and off you go again on a beautiful loop - la Buffère Trace - which will take you up to the summit of Echaillon (at 2578m altitude, +502m ascent), before heading back down to the refuge.

Just a word of warning: if you want to enjoy the experience, we strongly advise you to be accompanied by a mountain professional (you'll find guides here)!

Photo : © Cédric Tempier - Breathtaking scenery from the Buffère refuge!

After the effort, the comfort: back at the Buffère refuge, you can enjoy a delicious home-made non-alcoholic ginger beer and a “cocooning” atmosphere with all the necessary comforts: electricity, hot showers, sitting area with library and games...

Day 2: lunch at the Chardonnet refuge and return journey from Briançon

Ski touring from the Buffère refuge to the Chardonnet refuge

After a well-deserved rest, you'll be able to set off again for the adventure of ski touring to the second refuge. From the Buffère refuge, it takes 1h30 to 2h on forest edge itineraries or via the Baude ridge, for example.

Photo : © Cédric Tempier - The crossing from above!

Lunch at the Chardonnet refuge

This walk should have whetted your appetite. Good news: at the foot of the Cerces limestone cliffs, nestled at an altitude of 2227 metres, you'll find the refuge du Chardonnet. An ideal base camp for nature lovers, hikers, skiers or climbers, with its panoramic terrace. To find out more about the Chardonnet refuge, we invite you to read our article on the best refuges to discover in the Hautes-Alpes.

There, you can enjoy a hot meal and appreciate the refuge's delicious home-cooked, organic and local cuisine!

Ski touring from the Chardonnet refuge to Névache

After this gourmet stopover, you can set off on a final ski touring adventure back to civilization.

Photo : © Cédric Tempier - Our national Tolt on ski touring!

From the Chardonnet refuge, it takes 1h30 to 2h to ski back down to Névache.

Photo : © Cédric Tempier - Honestly, doesn't it make you want to?

Discovering Briançon before returning to Paris

From Névache, you can take the shuttle bus to the Cité Vauban in Briançon. As you'll have a bit of time to spare before getting back on the train, we suggest you take the opportunity to discover the old fortified town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It's a great opportunity to stroll through the cobbled streets, ramparts and fortifications designed by Vauban! To find out more, take a look at our article “What to do around Briançon in a weekend”!

Finally, from the Cité Vauban, it's a 30-minute walk to the Briançon train station, where you can catch the 7:57pm return train from Briançon to Paris.

To find out more, take a look at our Briançon guide, with our selection of activities in and around Briançon!