Planning a trip to Sicily? If so, here's a must-do experience to visit one of the island's symbols, Mount Etna, Europe's highest active volcano (and one of the world's most active) near Catania. Built at the end of the 19th century, the Circumetnea line allows you to discover the volcano in a whole new light. A 110 km route all around Etna, from urban areas to farmland and volcanic slopes, with a magical view of the beautiful Sicilian countryside and ancient lava flows, with Etna's crater in the background. Zoom in on one of Europe's most original trains!
Before we tell you more about the “Etna train”, a few words about this fascinating volcano. The highest active volcano in Europe, it rises to 3,329 metres, with a surface area of 1,190 km² and a base diameter of 40 km!
And while it has erupted more than 200 times over the past two centuries, these eruptions are nothing new, having been documented since Antiquity. In Greek mythology, Etna was considered the home of the blacksmith Hepahistos (or Vulcan in Roman mythology), and was associated with legends about the titans.
Today, Etna and its regional nature park - created to protect its biodiversity and geological heritage - are popular with hikers and nature lovers. Guided excursions allow you to explore its craters and lava flows, and the upper reaches of the volcano are accessible by cable car and marked footpaths.
This extraordinary line was originally built between 1895 and 1898 to open up the previously inaccessible towns of Adrano, Bronte, Maletto, Randazzo and Linguaglossa. A successful gamble, since it brought an entire geographical area out of isolation.
At the time, the service was both tourist and commercial, transporting goods. Today, this historic line is used by tourists and locals alike for their daily journeys.
Fun fact: in the course of its history, the train has already had to stop four times due to eruptions of Mount Etna and lava flows preventing traffic from running on the tracks! Fortunately, the most recent was in 1981.
What makes this train so unique? The train itself is an attraction! Climbing aboard its creaky old orange and green carriages (more modern trains are also available) is like taking a trip back in time... and space. Soon, the city fades into the background, giving way to an exceptional view of the volcano entwined by the rails, but also of the Sicilian landscape, which alternates between Etna's lava fields, lemon groves, vineyards, pistachio plantations and prickly pear trees.
Tolt à bord de La Circumetnea
The Circumetnea links Catania to the seaside town of Riposto, passing through 30 stations and several historic villages, with a maximum difference in altitude of 960 meters!
Departure is from Catania's Borgo station, about 2 kilometers' walk from the center.
We advise you to stop along the way in the various towns and villages you'll pass through, all of which have a great story to tell:
© Tolt
You can also make optional stops at the Passo Zingaro and Gurrida stations for excursions on foot, particularly to Lake Gurrida.
If you'd like to go for a bike ride, you'll be pleased to know that some trains accept bikes on board free of charge (the most recent trains)! But be sure to book early, as places are limited (4 to 8 bikes maximum). Trains equipped to carry bicycles are indicated by a “bicycle” symbol in the service timetable.
To get back to Catania, you can return to Randazzo station and head for Catania/Borgo. Alternatively, from Riposto, you can reach the Giarre village station to take the classic Ferrovie dello Stato train to Catania.
The entire journey takes around 3 hours 15 minutes between Catania and Riposto (110 kilometers), with a connection at Randazzo.
Around ten trains run in each direction every day, except Sundays and public holidays. Please note, however, that some trains do not run at certain times of the year. Be sure to check train availability, timetables and frequency beforehand on the company's website. In any case, bus services are available all year round.
Timetables are also posted on site at the station, in both directions. The first trains leave at 6 a.m. and the last arrive after 5 p.m.
Ticket prices depend on the number of kilometers traveled. There are currently 8 price bands, ranging from €1.90 for 10 km to €6.80 for 110 km (full itinerary). To explore the entire line, you'll need a “fascia 8” ticket.
Note that if you want to take the whole line from Catania to Riposto or vice versa, you can buy a ticket for €6.80 and stop in the various villages. But if you want to make a round trip (Catania - Randazzo then Randazzo - Catania, for example), you'll need to buy another ticket, or take a daily ticket at €13.
© circunmetnea.it - Grille tarifaire selon le nombre de kilomètres (colonne de gauche), en vigueur depuis octobre 2024.
In our book Travel by train with HOURRAIL!, we present a 2-day itinerary in two stages:
First, among other stops, we recommend you take the time to discover this village built of lava stone. You can visit its beautiful churches (especially the cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta) and sip a granita while munching on a brioche (Pasticceria Santo Musumeci, Piazza Santa Maria 5), before stepping back from the gigantism of Mount Etna (over 3,000 meters high!) via the hiking trails that climb the slopes of the Nebrodi.
The next day, you can take the train back to Riposto. We recommend getting off at Linguaglossa, for a day's hiking on Mount Etna. At this altitude, you'll be able to follow the trails on your own (without leaving the markers!), provided you're well-shod. If not, we suggest you go and meet Emilio Sciacca, a natural wine producer, who offers tastings and tours of his estate, a twenty-minute walk from the station (you can book your experience here).
Finally, the last stretch of the line takes you to Riposto, by the sea. The station is served by Sicilian regional trains, which run to Catania or Taormina (the choice is yours!).
Beware: it snows at the top of Mount Etna in winter, which can make hiking impossible, and temperatures can be extreme in summer. We therefore advise you to go during the half-seasons for an ideal day out!
Le mont Etna enneigé en arrière-plan.
And apart from the La Circumetnea experience, if you don't know what to do in Sicily, we suggest you (re)discover this video by Tolt, where he recounts his adventure from Paris to Palermo by night train:
And for all the behind-the-scenes details of his trip (prices, tips...), don't hesitate to take a look at this vidéo.