In Lorient, taking the train can now save you money
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Published on 6/12/26
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We tested one of Europe’s most stylish night trains for you! With its 1980s vibe, the Retro Istria Express not only connects Budapest to Slovenia and Croatia but also takes you on a journey back in time. Schedule, prices, where and how to book... We answer all your questions so you, too, can enjoy this unforgettable experience.
MÁV Start Zrt. is a subsidiary of Hungarian State Railways (Hungarian Railways), which specializes in passenger transport. The company offers numerous domestic routes serving more than 600 stations. It also operates several international routes, such as the night train we’re featuring in this article. By the way, a clarification is in order: even though I loved the train’s vintage look, it’s clear that the Hungarian company didn’t choose to put these old trains into service to offer travelers a trip down memory lane. It’s primarily for economic reasons.
Update for 2026: The train now departs from Budapest-Keleti (rather than Budapest-Déli) from June 26 to August 30, 2026.
Doesn't that sound tempting?
Every summer, the Hungarian railway company operates a retro-style overnight train between Budapest and the popular seaside resorts on the Istrian Peninsula. This means you can reach Hungary and its capital from Koper in Slovenia or from Opatija and Rijeka in Croatia, passing through Ljubljana, the Slovenian capital.
For the 2026 season, the train runs from June 26 to August 30 from Budapest, and from June 27 to August 30 in the opposite direction.
On the Budapest–Koper/Rijeka route, the train departs from Budapest-Keleti Station at 9:30 p.m. and arrives the following day:
Schedule for the Retro Istria Express departing from Budapest
In the Koper/Rijeka–Budapest direction, the train departs from Rijeka Station at 7:07 p.m. or the Koper train station at 6:50 p.m., arriving at Budapest-Keleti the next day at 7:28 a.m., with the option to board in Ljubljana at 11:00 p.m..
Retro Istria Express Schedule from Istria
As you can see, the route stops at the stations in Budapest-Keleti, Budapest-Kelenföld, Székesfehérvár, Várpalota, Veszprém, Ajka, Zalaegerszeg, Ljubljana, Postojna, Divača, Koper, Opatija-Matulji, and Rijeka.
⚠️ Projects in Slovenia : Rail construction is scheduled for July 3–6, 2026, which may affect some trains during this period. Ticket sales for the affected dates have been temporarily suspended. Please check availability on jegy.mav.hu before booking.
For our part, when we booked a trip the day before for the following day during peak season (early August), the two-berth compartment between Ljubljana and Budapest cost us exactly €144.79 for two people. In other words, just over €70 for a double cabin with a sink, a small towel, and breakfast included! When I saw that, I honestly couldn’t believe my eyes... If you factor in the hotel night we were able to save on, it’s practically free.
However, we strongly recommend that you book a little earlier to ensure you get a seat and perhaps take advantage of slightly lower rates. When you book, don’t be surprised if you see two charges:
START Europa tickets are non-refundable. However, START Europa Plus tickets are refundable up until the day before your trip. If START Europa tickets are sold out, you’ll need to opt for Europa Flex tickets, which are available in unlimited quantities and are fully refundable. In terms of price, expect to pay at least €20 from Ljubljana, €20 from Koper, and €25 from Rijeka. START Europa Plus tickets (refundable) start at €25 from Ljubljana and €31 from Koper.
Next, the reservation will cost you:
Good news if you're traveling with your family: the children ages 6 to 15 have a fixed rate of €5 per trip, regardless of the destination, up to a maximum of 3 children per adult paying full fare.
All of this might sound pretty complicated, but honestly, the booking process is actually pretty smooth, so don't worry.
Booking your tickets is pretty easy—just go to the MÁV website. Please note: Reservations for the Retro Istria Express are not not available in the MÁV and MÁV+ apps, although tickets purchased online will appear there later. You can also buy tickets at the international ticket counters at Hungarian train stations. It is also possible to pay in cash in euros (fixed exchange rate: €1 = 380 HUF).
Our experience suggests that it isn't necessarily necessary to book months in advance, but generally speaking, booking 1 or 2 months before departure should help you get the best prices.
Seating section for those on a very tight budget
The cheapest option—and, of course, the least comfortable... If you can, we still recommend spending the extra €11 to sleep in a bunk bed.
Aren't these 6-berth compartments just beautiful?!
In the sleeper car, you'll find these charming compartments with their varnished wooden walls and '80s-style curtains. We haven’t been able to try it out ourselves, but the photo looks inviting. Unless I’m mistaken, these cabins can accommodate 6 or 4 people. If you’ve already tried it, feel free to share your experience with us.
Sleeper car compartment for more privacy!
This is the perfect option for those who want a little more comfort and privacy. In the sleeper car, the compartments have 3 berths that can be folded down if you’re traveling alone or as a couple. We spent the night in this compartment, and it was amazing! There’s a small sink (which we didn’t discover until the next day because it’s well hidden), a mirror that also hides outlets if you need to charge your devices—honestly, you have everything you need while still enjoying this super-original retro decor. The icing on the cake is that the ticket includes breakfast (pretty decent), a small towel per person with soap so you can freshen up a bit.
In conclusion, you'll love this train for its retro charm, but it's also a super convenient way to travel to Central Europe from Slovenia or Croatia.
Want to bring your bike? It is possible, but only in very limited numbers: 3 bicycles per train, reservations required at €5. Book as soon as possible—they sell out fast.
The pets Items in sealed containers are accepted for free in standard cars. Dogs may also travel without a carrier (muzzle and leash required), provided they have a special ticket. However, animals are not permitted in sleeper berths or sleeper cars.
One last thing to know: as with any self-respecting vintage train, there isn't no air conditioning or electrical outlets on board. It’s all part of the experience—the windows open the old-fashioned way to let in the fresh air, and it’s a great chance to really unwind. Don’t forget to charge your devices before you board!
Benjamin Martinie - aka Tolt en voyage - est réalisateur, Youtubeur et auteur spécialisé dans le voyage depuis plus de 10 ans. Il s’est d’abord fait connaître avec sa série "Don’t go to…”, tournée caméra au poing aux quatre coins du monde. Ces vidéos, visionnées plusieurs millions de fois et saluées par la critique, ont été relayées dans de nombreux médias (France Info, Nat Geo, Le Point...) et distinguées par plusieurs prix ou nominations (Travel Video Awards, Resistance Film Festival...).
En 2019, il prend un virage décisif et renonce à l’avion pour se consacrer au voyage responsable. En 2023, il fonde HOURRAIL !, le média communautaire de référence sur le voyage bas carbone qui rassemble aujourd'hui plus de 500 000 passionnés sur ses différents réseaux sociaux.
A travers ses articles, ses vidéos et interviews d'experts, il décrypte avec rigueur et pédagogie les enjeux liés au tourisme, au climat et au transport ferroviaire. Son objectif : prouver qu’on peut voyager et être heureux, sans prendre l’avion.
