New Aquitaine by Train: A 7-Day Car-Free Itinerary
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Published on 7/3/27
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Inspiration and great deals for your next low-carbon trips
We tested one of Europe’s most stylish night trains for you! With its ’80s-style design, the Retro Istria Express not only connects Budapest to Slovenia and Croatia but also takes you on a journey back in time. Schedule, prices, where and how to book... We’ll answer all your questions so you, too, can enjoy this unforgettable experience.
MÁV Start Zrt., is the subsidiary of Hungarian State Railways (Hungarian Railways), which specializes in passenger transport. The company offers numerous domestic routes serving more than 600 stations. It also operates several international routes, such as the night train we’re featuring in this article. Incidentally, it’s worth noting that while we loved the train’s vintage charm, it’s clear that the Hungarian company didn’t choose to put these old trains back into service simply to offer travelers a trip down memory lane. The decision was made primarily for economic reasons.
Please note: The train now departs from Budapest-Keleti (rather than Budapest-Déli, as it did in earlier seasons).
Doesn't that sound tempting, honestly?
Every summer, the Hungarian railway company operates a retro-style overnight train between Budapest and the popular seaside resorts on the Istrian Peninsula. Thus, you can reach Hungary and its capital from Koper in Slovenia or from Opatija and Rijeka in Croatia, via Ljubljana, the capital of Slovenia.
The train runs every summer, usually from late June to late August (in 2026: June 26 through August 30 from Budapest; June 27 through August 30 on the return trip), But be sure to check the exact dates for the current season on jegy.mav.hu before booking.
On the Budapest–Koper/Rijeka route, the train departs from Budapest-Keleti Station at 9:30 p.m. and arrives the following day:
Retro Istria Express Schedule from Budapest
On the Koper/Rijeka–Budapest route, the train departs from Rijeka Station at 7:07 p.m. or the Koper train station at 6:50 p.m., arriving at Budapest-Keleti the next day at 7:28 a.m., with the option to board in Ljubljana at 11:00 p.m..
Retro Istria Express Schedule from Istria
As you can see, the route stops at the following stations: Budapest-Keleti, Budapest-Kelenföld, Székesfehérvár, Várpalota, Veszprém, Ajka, Zalaegerszeg, Ljubljana, Postojna, Divača, Koper, Opatija-Matulji, and Rijeka.
As for us, when we booked a trip the day before for the following day during peak season (early August), the two-bed compartment between Ljubljana and Budapest cost us exactly €144.79 for two people. In other words, just a little over €70 for a double cabin with a sink, a small towel, and breakfast included! When I saw that, I honestly couldn’t believe my eyes... If you factor in the hotel night we were able to save on, it’s practically free.
Please note: Prices may vary slightly from season to season. The ranges below are a good guide, but be sure to check the current prices on jegy.mav.hu.
In any case, we highly recommend that you plan a little further in advance to ensure you have a spot and perhaps take advantage of slightly lower rates. When you make your reservation, don't be surprised if you see two charges:
START Europa tickets are non-refundable. However, START Europa Plus tickets are refundable up until the day before travel. If START Europa tickets are sold out, you’ll need to opt for Europa Flex tickets, which are available in unlimited quantities and are fully refundable. As for prices, expect to pay at least €20 from Ljubljana, €20 from Koper, and €25 from Rijeka. START Europa Plus tickets (refundable) start at €25 from Ljubljana and €31 from Koper.
Next, the reservation will cost you:
Good news if you're traveling with your family: the children ages 6 to 15 have a fixed rate of €5 per trip, regardless of the destination, up to a maximum of 3 children per adult paying full fare.
All of this might seem pretty complicated, but honestly, the booking process goes pretty smoothly, so don't stress.
Booking your tickets is pretty simple—just go to the MÁV website. Please note: Reservations for the Retro Istria Express are not not available in the MÁV and MÁV+ apps, although tickets purchased online will appear there afterward. You can also buy tickets at the international ticket windows at Hungarian train stations. It is also possible to pay in cash in euros (fixed exchange rate: 1 € = 380 HUF).
Our experience seems to show that it isn't necessarily necessary to plan months in advance, but generally speaking, booking 1 or 2 months before departure should allow you to get the best prices.
Seated section for those on a very tight budget
The cheapest option—and, of course, the least comfortable... If you can, we still recommend spending the extra €11 to sleep in a bunk bed.
Aren't these 6-berth compartments just beautiful?!
In the sleeper car, you'll find these charming compartments with their varnished wooden walls and '80s-style curtains. We haven’t been able to try them out ourselves, but the photo looks inviting. Unless I’m mistaken, these cabins can accommodate either 6 or 4 people. If you’ve already tried them, feel free to share your experience with us.
A sleeper car compartment for more privacy!
This is the ideal option for those who want a little more comfort and privacy. In the sleeper car, the compartments have three berths that can be folded down if you’re traveling alone or as a couple. We spent the night in this compartment, and it was great! There’s a small sink (which we didn’t discover until the next day because it’s well hidden), a mirror that also conceals outlets in case you need to charge your devices—honestly, you have everything you need while still enjoying this super-original retro decor. The icing on the cake: the ticket includes breakfast (which is pretty decent), a small towel per person, and a bar of soap—just enough for a quick “quick wash.”
In conclusion, this train will charm you with its retro appeal, but it's also a super convenient way to travel to Central Europe from Slovenia or Croatia.
Do you want to bring your bike? It's possible, but only in very limited numbers: 3 bicycles per train, with reservations required at 5 €. Book as soon as possible—they sell out fast.
The pets Items in closed containers are accepted for free in passenger cars. Dogs may also travel without a carrier (muzzle and leash required), with a special ticket. However, animals are not permitted in sleeper berths or sleeper cars.
Benjamin Martinie - aka Tolt en voyage - est réalisateur, Youtubeur et auteur spécialisé dans le voyage depuis plus de 10 ans. Il s’est d’abord fait connaître avec sa série "Don’t go to…”, tournée caméra au poing aux quatre coins du monde. Ces vidéos, visionnées plusieurs millions de fois et saluées par la critique, ont été relayées dans de nombreux médias (France Info, Nat Geo, Le Point...) et distinguées par plusieurs prix ou nominations (Travel Video Awards, Resistance Film Festival...).
En 2019, il prend un virage décisif et renonce à l’avion pour se consacrer au voyage responsable. En 2023, il fonde HOURRAIL !, le média communautaire de référence sur le voyage bas carbone qui rassemble aujourd'hui plus de 500 000 passionnés sur ses différents réseaux sociaux.
A travers ses articles, ses vidéos et interviews d'experts, il décrypte avec rigueur et pédagogie les enjeux liés au tourisme, au climat et au transport ferroviaire. Son objectif : prouver qu’on peut voyager et être heureux, sans prendre l’avion.
