Car-free Écrins National Park: our complete guide to trains + buses, hikes, and mountain huts

Written by Sophie Renassia

Published yesterday

Dreaming of glaciers, deep valleys and nights under the stars… but travelling without a car or choosing to go by train? Good news: the Écrins National Park, tucked in the heart of the French Alps between Isère and Hautes-Alpes (between Grenoble, Gap, Briançon and the Oisans), offers high mountain landscapes at their most spectacular: legendary summits, rare biodiversity, wild valleys, Alpine culture… and parts of it are accessible by train + bus!

So, if you’re wondering how far you can go without a steering wheel (and with hiking boots), you’re in the right place. Here’s everything you need to plan your stay in the Écrins: how to get there by train and bus, the key regulations inside the park (and why they matter), where and how to stay in a mountain hut, and of course: what to do, where to go, and how to enjoy it all without a car. Follow the guide.

The Écrins National Park

Created in 1973, the massif protects nearly 93,000 hectares in its core zone, spread across seven Alpine valleys. In just a few kilometres you can go from Mediterranean slopes in the Embrun region to the glacial world of La Barre des Écrins (4,102 m), the park’s highest point. Around 2,400 plant species grow here (over 200 of them rare or threatened), and the wildlife is incredibly rich: mammals, birds, reptiles, amphibians, insects… a true open-air laboratory of life.

The territory is divided into two main zones:

• The core zone: the most strictly protected area. Hiking is allowed, but there are rules to follow (no dogs, no fires, bivouacking under strict conditions, no camping, etc.). More details below.
• The peripheral zone: the surrounding municipalities, committed to sustaining mountain life while respecting the protected area (villages, accommodation, agriculture, mobility, etc.) and who are signatories to a charter with the National Park.

How to reach the Écrins National Park by train and bus

There is no direct “Écrins National Park station”, but several gateway stations surround the massif, with bus networks that bring you into the valleys.

© Destination Parc national des Écrins (destination.ecrins-parcnational.fr)

The stations that bring you closest to the park

Around the massif, several SNCF stations act as hubs:

• Grenoble: gateway to the Oisans area (La Grave, Villar-d’Arène, Saint-Christophe-en-Oisans…), with bus links to Bourg d’Oisans and beyond.
• Briançon: terminus of the mountain line from Gap (also served by the Paris–Briançon night train), giving access to the Guisane valley and Le Monêtier-les-Bains / Le Casset.
• Gap, Embrun, Veynes, Mont-Dauphin–Guillestre, L’Argentière-les-Écrins: these stations cover the Hautes-Alpes side of the massif (Champsaur, Valgaudemar, Embrun region, Pays des Écrins…).

© Destination Parc national des Écrins (destination.ecrins-parcnational.fr)

In practice: take a train to one of these stations, then hop on a bus or shuttle to head up the valley you’re aiming for. Except at L’Argentière-les-Écrins, where you can step off the train and start hiking directly (and if you’re not fond of steep climbs, there are shuttles to take you higher). More info here.

Bus networks and shuttles to know

Train lines stop at the bottom of the valleys; buses take you into the mountains.

• Région Sud – ZOU! network: connects Gap, Briançon, Embrun, Veynes, Mont-Dauphin and L’Argentière-les-Écrins, with express lines on main routes.
• Isère side: the website itinisere.fr and the Cars Région network provide timetables for buses from Grenoble to Bourg d’Oisans and the Oisans gateways.
• Local sites: the Destination Écrins National Park website and tourist offices detail summer shuttles serving major hiking locations (Valgaudemar, Vallouise valley, roadheads, etc.).

© Destination Parc national des Écrins (destination.ecrins-parcnational.fr)

In short: the winning combo to explore the Écrins without a car = train to the nearest station + bus or shuttle up the valley.

The best tools to plan your trip

Before buying your ticket, take the time to plan your route:

• On Destination Écrins National Park: detailed hike descriptions, itinerary search engine (distance, elevation, core zone or not…), and preparation tips.
• For transport: ZOU!, Cars Région, Itinisère and local tourist office websites provide updated timetables and lines.

Trip ideas accessible by public transport

“Okay, but what can I do without a car?” Here are a few valley sectors you can reach by train + bus, and enjoy the mountains.

Vallouise–Pelvoux and the Pré de Madame Carle

How to get there

Train to L’Argentière-les-Écrins, then buses/shuttles to the Vallouise villages and high-altitude sites (Pelvoux, Pré de Madame Carle).

What to expect

A deep dive into Vallouise–Pelvoux, a historic mountaineering base. The summer hamlet of Ailefroide leads to iconic huts (Écrins, Sélé, Glacier Blanc, Pelvoux, Bans…).

From the Pré de Madame Carle, you can hike towards the Glacier Blanc and Glacier Noir on waymarked trails—perfect for observing the giants of ice or, if skilled or guided, pushing further into high mountain terrain.

With several days, try multi-day loops like the 4-day Vallouise refuge circuit, or the 3-day Tour du Pays des Écrins starting directly from the train station—no shuttle needed!

Valgaudemar and the Gioberney Hut

How to get there

Train to Gap, then regional bus to the Champsaur–Valgaudemar valley, then summer shuttles to go higher up the valley (in particular the Valgaudemar shuttles between St. Firmin - La Chapelle and La Chapelle - Le Gioberney, depending on the season and routes in operation).

Wandering around Valgaudemar - © Ariane Fornia, Ecrins National Park

What to expect

La Chapelle-en-Valgaudemar is one of the seven mountaineering villages. It is located in the Valgaudemar valley, sometimes nicknamed the “little Himalayas” for its steep slopes and peaks over 3,000 m high. You can go on day trips or hike to several mountain refuges: Gioberney, Olan, Vallonpierre, Clot Xavier Blanc, Pigeonnier, Charbounéou, Souffles, and more.

Think torrents, cliffs, huge glaciers above the valley… all without a car!

Multi-day ideas: Tour du Vieux Chaillol, or 4-day Tour of the Valgaudemar huts.

La Grave and Villar-d’Arène, facing La Meije

How to get there

Train to Grenoble or Briançon, then express buses (ZOU 55 or 69 / T75 depending on season) crossing the Lautaret pass to La Grave and Villar-d’Arène.

Hike starting from Villar d'Arène - © Thibaut Blais, Ecrins National Park

What to expect

Two iconic mountaineering villages at the foot of La Meije. A cable car takes you toward the glaciers, and numerous trails lead to high-altitude huts (Golèon, Pic du Mas de la Grave, Fay, Mouterres, Clots, Évariste Chancel…).

The ZOU 55 bus from Grenoble to Briançon stops at the Lautaret Pass (2,058 m), where you can start hikes right at the edge of the park—and visit the famed Alpine Botanical Garden.

The perfect playground for hikes, mountain culture, and maybe a supervised mountaineering initiation.

Saint-Christophe-en-Oisans and La Bérarde

How to get there

Train to Grenoble, bus to Bourg d’Oisans, then seasonal lines up the Vénéon valley to Saint-Christophe-en-Oisans or La Bérarde (more infos here).

Arrival in sight at the Alpe du Pin refuge - © Kinaphoto, Écrins National Park

What to expect

Saint-Christophe-en-Oisans lies across a vast portion of the core zone. Visit the “Mountaineering Memories” museum, meet mountain guides, and head toward a wide range of huts (Selle, Soreiller, Lavey, Alpe du Pin…). La Bérarde, the “end-of-the-world hamlet”, marks the road’s end—beyond that, it’s all on foot.

Sleeping high: mountain huts and bivouac rules

Spending a night up high often transforms a good trip into an unforgettable one.

Staying in a hut: a unique experience

The Écrins feature around 40 huts, some carrying the Esprit Parc National label for their environmental and territorial commitments.

A well-deserved lunch at the Pigeonnier refuge in Valgaudemar - © Thibaut Blais, Écrins National Park

A few things to keep in mind:

• Most shelters are only accessible on foot and are supplied by porters or sometimes by helicopter. This explains why there is a single menu for everyone, why logistics are so carefully planned, and why it is important to book in advance.
• Dorm-style accommodation with blankets provided; a sleeping liner is mandatory. No extra sleeping bag needed in guarded season.
• Dinner is served at a fixed time and early (around 6-7 pm) for early starts. No second service.
• Many shelters have no stable mobile network, no power outlets for everyone, and sometimes even no self-service drinking water. Some have no choice but to offer very limited access to electricity (priority given to shelter management).

For all the huts, check the park’s interactive hut map.

Map of shelters - © Parc national des Écrins

Bivouacking: allowed, but strictly regulated

Bivouacking is dreamy—your tent facing the peaks, sunrise over an alpine lake… but in the core zone, rules are strict:

• Camping is forbidden. You can’t leave your tent up during the day or stay multiple days.
• Bivouacking is allowed only:
  • between 7 pm and 9 am,
  • with a small, non-standing-height tent,
  • more than one hour’s walk from roads and core zone boundaries (marked with tricolour signs).

Near shelters, the approach varies depending on the facilities and options available on site. You should ask the caretaker (by phone in advance or when you arrive) about the conditions on site. Sometimes it is possible to sleep near the shelter, use the facilities, and even eat meals at the shelter (by reservation only), and sometimes it is not.

On long-distance trails, bivouacking may be tolerated closer to parking areas—but mainly for through-hikers arriving from afar.

The refuge warden, who is the key person to contact (by email or often by phone) to find out what is possible in the vicinity of a refuge - © Thibaut Blais, Écrins National Park

Key rules to remember

• No fires: open flames are forbidden. A small stove may be tolerated (used carefully and far from forests).
• Leave no trace: take everything down with you, including toilet paper and food scraps.
• Respect water sources: no soap or dishwashing in lakes or streams—not even biodegradable products.
• Avoid swimming: high-altitude lakes are particularly fragile environments. Swimming in high-altitude lakes is therefore not recommended, and sometimes even prohibited due to water pollution (particularly from sunscreen), disturbance, and safety risks.

You can alternate huts, bivouac and guesthouses on long routes like the GR54 (Grand Tour of the Oisans and Écrins) to manage showers, weather and resupply.

Understanding and respecting mountain regulations

The park rules are not there to annoy us, but to ensure that the Écrins remain a living, wild, and natural space that we can return to in 10, 20, or 30 years.

A harsh environment, fragile species

At altitude, life struggles against long winters, poor soils and rapid climate change. This diversity is why the park exists—and why limiting our impact is essential.

The rules in a nutshell

The park’s campaign “Good Practices for Discovering the Mountains” translates regulations into simple gestures. In the core zone:

• Leave no waste (not even fruit peels or cheese rinds).
• Stay on trails and avoid cutting switchbacks.
• No dogs (even leashed): they disturb wildlife and can transmit disease.
• Do not pick flowers: many are rare or slow to regenerate.
• No fires.
• Keep noise low: no loud speakers—mountains aren’t nightclubs.

Whenever you wonder “Why is this forbidden?”, the answer is almost always fauna, flora, soil, or safety (or all four!).

Regulations on a sign - © Ariane Fornia, Parc national des Écrins

Preparing your hike changes everything

A successful outing starts the day before—or even earlier, when you’re booking your train:

• check weather and trail conditions,
• choose an itinerary that matches your level,
• bring proper footwear, warm layers, a map, and enough food and water.

This helps you enjoy fully without getting into trouble, or mobilising mountain rescue unnecessarily. More info on the park’s website.

The 7 Mountaineering Villages: culture and heritage

Beyond peaks, the Écrins is also a land of strong mountain culture.

The Seven Mountaineering Villages, inspired by Austria’s Bergsteigerdörfer, highlight mountaineering history, local heritage, preserved landscapes, and a commitment to responsible outdoor practices, who played a major role in the history of the massif.

They are:

• La Grave
• Villar-d’Arène
• Le Monêtier-les-Bains / Le Casset
• Valjouffrey
• Vallouise–Pelvoux
• La Chapelle-en-Valgaudemar
• Saint-Christophe-en-Oisans (with La Bérarde)

Each offers:

• trails and huts nearby,
• opportunities to meet guides, hut guardians, park rangers and scientists,
• projects addressing climate change and biodiversity challenges.

Checklist for a smooth trip to the Écrins

Before you go

1. Choose your valley based on the most convenient station (Grenoble, Briançon, Gap, Embrun, Veynes, Mont-Dauphin, L’Argentière-les-Écrins).
2. Check bus and shuttle lines on:
   • the Park's website (“Access & transport”),
   • ZOU! (Hautes-Alpes),
   • Itinisère / Cars Région (Oisans),
   • local tourist offices.

• Decide where you’ll sleep: huts (book early), guesthouses, bivouac (check rules).

Once there

• Visit a Park House for maps, exhibitions, trail info, weather, wildlife insights and regulations.
• Adopt mountain common sense: stay on trails, no dogs in the core zone, pack out all waste, no fires, respect other users (hikers, shepherds, livestock guardian dogs, wildlife).

Arrival at the Argentière-les-Écrins SNCF train station, ready to set off on a hike! - © Thibaut Blais, Écrins National Park

In short: the Écrins without a car is absolutely possible, and often even better!

Exploring the Écrins car-free means embracing a slower rhythm—but a much deeper experience. High mountains must be earned. Now you have everything you need:

• Train + bus: the winning combo to reach the valleys (with more options in summer).
• A unique protected area: glaciers, 4,000-metre peaks, 2,400 plant species, fragile biodiversity, dramatic valleys and historic mountaineering villages.
• Bivouac allowed under strict conditions, no camping in the core zone.
• Huts: book, prepare, respect—they are places of adventure, not hotels.
• And above all: no fires, no dogs in the core zone, no flower picking, no lake swimming, no waste.

You don’t just come here to hike. You come to learn a different way of being in the mountains: slower, more aware, more humble… and infinitely more beautiful, don’t you think?

This article was written in collaboration with the Écrins National Park.
For more information, visit destination.ecrins-parcnational.fr!

Written by Sophie Renassia

Issue du monde de la communication et des médias, Sophie est Responsable éditoriale chez HOURRAIL ! depuis août 2024. Elle est notamment derrière le contenu éditorial du site ainsi que La Locomissive (de l'inspiration voyage bas carbone et des bons plans, un jeudi sur deux, gratuitement dans ta boîte mail !).

Convaincue que les changements d’habitude passent par la transformation de nos imaginaires, elle s’attache à montrer qu’il est possible de voyager autrement, de manière plus consciente, plus lente et plus joyeuse. Son objectif : rendre le slow travel accessible à toutes et tous, à travers des astuces, des décryptages et surtout, de nouveaux récits.

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