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Night trains, regional buses, staffed mountain huts, high-altitude passes, and glacial landscapes: for three days, our reporters Lisa and Benjamin explored part of the Écrins National Park without a car! At a time when mountain destinations are seeking to balance tourist appeal with the preservation of natural environments, the Écrins massif stands out as a fantastic testing ground. Is it still possible to experience a true Alpine adventure without a car? How can we explore these exceptional landscapes without contributing to their degradation? And what best practices should we adopt to enjoy the mountains while respecting their fragility?
To answer these questions, we’re taking you with us aboard the Paris-Briançon overnight train before setting off on a three-day hike along the “Between Cerces and Écrins” trail, starting from Le Monêtier-les-Bains and passing through the Col du Lautaret, the Crevasse Trail, and the Col d’Arsine. An adventure in the heart of a region that’s as accessible as it is spectacular.
👉 To plan your own trip to Écrins National Park (access by train, mountain huts, regulations, camping, suggested itineraries, etc.), check out our comprehensive guide to exploring Écrins National Park without a car.
Article
Car-free Écrins National Park: our complete guide to trains + buses, hikes, and mountain huts
🏔️ The Itinerary : A 3-day backpacking trip between Cerces and Écrins, starting from Le Monêtier-les-Bains, via the Col du Lautaret, the Crevasses Trail, and the Col d'Arsine.
🚆 Car-Free Access : Night train from Paris to Briançon or TGV to Grenoble, then the ZOU 55 bus to Monêtier-les-Bains.🥾 Level : moderate, with 5 to 6 hours of hiking per day and up to 1,000 m of elevation gain.
🏡 Accommodations : Clôt des Vaches Mountain Hut, then Alpe de Villar-d'Arène Mountain Hut.
🐾 Things to Keep in Mind Before You Go :
“I’d already gone hiking in the mountains, and I know how difficult it is to reach certain hiking areas without a car. So it was really surprising to experience a 100% car-free backpacking trip. We tend to take the easy way out without realizing that, in the end, the other option is even simpler. Without a car, you feel 100% free—and what a joy it is to experience that feeling right in the heart of the mountains!” —Lisa
When people think of alpine hiking, they often picture a car loaded with backpacks, hours of driving, and a parking lot at the end of a valley. However, there’s a very different way to get to the Écrins.
For this experiment, we decided to test a Hike between Cerces and Écrins, a loop route that's particularly well-suited for exploring the Écrins region by public transportation.
On Sunday evening, you board the train in Paris INTERCITÉS night train bound for Briançon. As the city falls asleep, the train speeds toward the Alps. After a good night’s sleep, the first mountain peaks come into view through the windows, and at 8:30 a.m., you arrive at the Briançon train station in the Hautes-Alpes. Then, all you have to do is take the ZOU 55 bus toward Monêtier-les-Bains. And an hour later, there you are at the trailhead, far from the city and ready to set off on a three-day hike!
You'll see—the journey begins even before you set foot on the hiking trail. The overnight train, arriving in Briançon in the early morning, the bus transfer, and then gradually making your way into the mountains are already an integral part of the experience of disconnecting.
The kind of scenery that makes you want to stay by the window - © Benjamin Martinie
To get to the starting point of this hike:
Another option: Take the TGV to Grenoble, then the ZOU 55 bus. Allow about A 6:30 a.m. to 7:00 a.m. trip from Paris, depending on the connections.
Travel time from Paris: about 12 o'clock by night train to Briançon, or 6:30 a.m. to 7:00 a.m. by TGV via Grenoble.
Physical level: intermediate, with between 500 and 1,000 meters of elevation gain per day and 5 to 6 hours of hiking each day.
Best time to visit: From June through September, depending on snow conditions.
Estimated budget (excluding transportation to Paris): To be filled out after the trip with the actual costs incurred (train, bus, mountain huts, meals).
Although we chose to start our road trip in Monêtier-les-Bains, the bus ZOU 55 It actually provides access to a large part of the northern and eastern sections of the mountain range. Running along the Guisane Valley and then crossing the Lautaret Pass, it serves several villages that are excellent starting points for exploring the Écrins without a car.
Among them, La Grave, listed among the “Most Beautiful Villages of France,” is the starting point for many hikes overlooking the Meije Massif, one of the most iconic peaks in the French Alps. A few kilometers further on, Villar-d'Arène makes it easy to access routes such as the Pontet Lake or the Alpe Mountain Hut from Villar-d'Arène. The line also serves the Lautaret Pass, an ideal starting point for exploring the Alpine Garden, enjoying panoramic views of the glaciers, or tackling several high-altitude trails.
In other words, this is truly great news for mountain lovers: you can explore many of the Écrins National Park’s most beautiful hidden gems without driving—simply by combining train, regional buses, and hiking!
The first hikers quickly leave the village of Monêtier-les-Bains behind, heading uphill into the cool air beneath the larch trees of the Saint Joseph forest, then crossing the mountainside along the Chemin du Roy to the Lauzet alp and, a little higher up, the Clôt des Vaches mountain hut, perched high in the mountains.
At first, the trail winds through the larch trees. Then the landscape gradually opens up. Valleys come into view, and the peaks draw closer. You’re now in the Cerces Massif, with a panoramic view of the Écrins, which come into view on the other side of the valley.
“The great thing about this hike is that it starts at an elevation of nearly 1,400 meters, and you’re immediately treated to spectacular views of the mountains. And above all, nature… What’s great about backpacking is that you don’t feel like you’re in a rush; you can take your time, take a little nap after lunch, hike at a leisurely pace without getting tired, and take the time to admire the panoramic views.” — Lisa
The Clos des Vaches Shelter - © Benjamin Martinie
Late in the afternoon, the shelter finally comes into view. The Clôt des Vaches shelter, which was built very recently and is run by Estelle and Dimitri, opened in January 2025.
After several hours of hiking, the warm atmosphere of this comfortable spot stands in stark contrast to the vastness of the landscapes we’ve just crossed. Backpacks hit the ground, and conversations begin!
“Personally, it was my first time at a shelter, says Lisa. And I loved it! I’m usually a big fan of youth hostels. Well, mountain huts work on the same principle. And for my first time, the Clôt des Vaches was perfect! It’s super friendly, the staff is incredible, the food is great, and the beds are very comfortable. But most of all, I learned the ins and outs of staying at a mountain hut, she continues. And as a Parisian, that’s not necessarily easy.”
Enjoying the mountains also means respecting them. And that starts with simple actions:
“For one thing, the mountains impose very specific rules because resources are scarce,” Lisa adds. “So you keep your trash with you, and you remember to bring a portable battery to charge your devices, o n minimizes water use as much as possible for personal hygiene, dishwashing, and other purposes (but not for staying hydrated, of course!), and if possible, try to bring some fresh food for the caretaker—a practice that’s fallen by the wayside a bit but is always appreciated!”
These are behaviors that may seem obvious to you, but they directly help preserve these particularly fragile natural areas.
In the early morning, the peaks around the mountain hut gradually light up. After breakfast, it’s time to set off again for the next leg of the hike, heading toward the Pont de l’Alpe and then the Col du Lautaret. Today’s stage should take you all the way to the Alpe de Villar-d'Arène Mountain Hut via the Crevasses Lookout, right in the heart of Écrins National Park.
The landscape changes once again: the vegetation becomes sparser, the terrain takes on a more rocky appearance, and glaciers come into view in the distance. And as you approach the Crevasse Lookout, the landscape takes on a whole new scale. The peaks seem to multiply on the horizon, and the glaciers become a more prominent feature of the landscape.
“"The mountains present us with a paradox: they give us a great sense of freedom, but also that feeling of being very small, faced with these peaks that sometimes seem to close in on us. When I admire this view, that’s exactly how I feel." — Lisa
At the end of the day, the Alpe de Villar-d'Arène mountain hut (FFCAM) offers a warm and welcome place to rest. Run by Mélanie, it welcomes hikers with a friendly atmosphere and home-cooked meals that quickly make you forget the day’s exertions: take-out picnics (to be reserved in advance), hearty lasagna for dinner… All under the curious gaze of the many marmots that have made their home around the shelter and can often be spotted just a few meters away.
“But it also made me sad, she continues. Because the landscape we’re traveling through has been severely affected by global warming. And it shows. Over the past 50 years, the Écrins glacier massif has lost 50% of its area, the equivalent of 5,000 hectares. Scientists predict the the disappearance of glaciers by 2100…”
Around the Alpe de Villar-d'Arène mountain hut, the first rays of sunlight gradually illuminate the peaks. It’s one of those moments that seem to stand still—moments that only hiking truly allows you to experience. “We started the hike pretty early, around 7 a.m., to walk while it was still cool. And watching the sun gradually light up the landscape is pretty magical.”", Lisa confirms.
On this third day, we're heading to the Arsine Pass, before heading back down toward Le Casset then the Alpe Bridge. The final leg of the hike, lasting about five and a half hours, offers some of the most beautiful scenery of the entire trip.
And if you have more time, don't hesitate to take a round trip to Lake Arsine—it's well worth the detour!
The magnificent Réou d'Arsine - © Benjamin Martinie
“By the end of the third day, you can feel that your body has adjusted—first to the altitude, but also to the physical exertion and the rhythm of the mountains. And that lets you really take in what’s around you, like the mountain animals. I think this is actually the first time I’ve seen so many marmots, as well as chamois and all kinds of birds!” — Lisa
In the Écrins, it’s hard not to be struck by the majesty of the landscapes. But behind this spectacular beauty lies a more complex reality: that of a region that must cope with the effects of climate change and ever-increasing tourist traffic.
During their stay, our reporters Lisa and Benjamin had the opportunity to speak with a park ranger at Écrins National Park.
Very quickly, one idea keeps coming up in the discussions: the rules in the Park aren't there to make life difficult for visitors. They were designed to protect a particularly fragile environment.
When you visit the Écrins for the first time, some of the regulations may come as a surprise: dogs are not allowed in the heart of the park, camping is restricted, and open fires and drones are prohibited. But there is a practical reason behind each of these rules.
“The park ranger was able to explain to us the issues behind the rules that we don’t always understand, Lisa explains. "The mountain's flora and fauna are particularly at risk. For example, with the heat, many baby chamois don't survive."
Disturbance of wildlife during breeding seasons, fire risks, soil erosion, the preservation of particularly sensitive wetlands… These are all realities that one understands much better when experiencing them firsthand in the field.
“Everything is very fragile,” he emphasizes Lisa. Even the smallest thing can damage a large part of the environment we’re passing through—like picking a flower or touching an animal. The main rule: not to leave a trace behind us. "We admire what is beautiful and don't touch it so that it will remain beautiful!"
Camping is part of the mountain dream: sleeping under the stars, waking up to a view of the peaks, experiencing total immersion in nature… It’s certainly an experience that sparks the imagination.
But in recent years, this practice has increased significantly in the Écrins. At some heavily visited sites, up to 215 tents were counted in a single night, while several hundred violations were recorded in a single season. This trend reflects a growing enthusiasm for immersive mountain experiences, but it also underscores the importance of better informing visitors about best practices.
Because a poorly prepared campsite can have very real consequences: litter left behind, disturbance of wildlife, damage to alpine meadows, pollution of waterways, and the proliferation of informal trails.
Mountains can sometimes give a sense of vastness. Yet these environments remain extremely fragile. And when you see these places with your own eyes, you quickly understand why certain activities need to be regulated!
The Magic of Mountain Landscapes - © Benjamin Martinie
Camping is permitted under certain conditions in the heart of the Écrins National Park. Before you go, it’s best to familiarize yourself with a few basic rules:
✅ Set up your tent only between 7 p.m. and 9 a.m.
✅ Settle in a location more than an hour's walk from a road or the boundaries of the park's core area
✅ Leave no trace of your visit
✅ Never start a fire
✅ Respect the peace and quiet of wildlife and other visitors
The goal is not to ban camping, but to allow everyone to continue enjoying this experience while preserving the area.
👉 And to find all the detailed rules and plan your trip, check out our A Complete Guide to the Écrins National Park Without a Car !
Day 0
Paris → Briançon by night train
Day 1
Briançon → Zou 55 Bus → Le Monêtier-les-Bains → Clôt des Vaches Mountain Hut
Day 2
Clôt des Vaches Mountain Hut → Pont de l'Alpe → Lautaret Pass → Crevasse Trail → Alpe de Villar-d'Arène Mountain Hut
Day 3
Alpe de Villar-d'Arène Mountain Hut → Arsine Pass → Le Casset → Le Monetier → Zou bus → Grenoble → TGV to Paris
The Clos des Vaches Shelter - © Benjamin Martinie
This adventure is for you if you already have some experience hiking in the mountains.
Account:
Also, be sure to book your mountain huts several weeks—or even several months—in advance if you're traveling in July or August. Spaces are limited, and accommodations are often fully booked during the summer. Take this opportunity to also reserve your picnic for the next day: most mountain huts offer them upon request when you make your reservation. And be sure to specify if you have any special dietary needs (vegetarian, gluten-free, etc.): at mountain huts, you can’t order à la carte!
This adventure doesn't require mountaineering gear, but it does require thorough preparation. In fact, any trip to the mountains should always be tailored to the weather conditions, the altitude, and your skill level.
Things to bring with you:
Before you leave, be sure to check the weather, snow conditions (especially early in the season, in June), and trail conditions. Simple but essential habits for enjoying the mountains with peace of mind.
It makes you want to try it, doesn't it? - © Benjamin Martinie
Want to extend your stay? If you have an extra day, you can spend a night at the Le Flourou Guesthouse or at the Aiguillette du Lauzet Guesthouse, two marked lodging facilities National Park Spirit. This label recognizes professionals committed to preserving natural areas, who prioritize local products, environmentally friendly practices, and a welcoming atmosphere in line with the Park’s values.
On the way back, you can also choose to get off at the Lauzet rather than in Monêtier-les-Bains to catch the bus. This little detour lets you explore the Lauzet Honey Farm and Pick-Your-Own Garden, a chalet where honey, herbal teas, jams, and other organic delicacies made from the bounty of the mountains are produced on site. An ideal stop to pick up a gourmet souvenir from the Écrins.
At a time when natural areas are seeing increasing numbers of visitors, the Écrins National Park demonstrates that another model is possible: mountain tourism based on sustainable transportation, hiking, raising awareness, and respect for natural environments. Traveling without a car isn’t just about switching modes of transportation. It’s also about learning to slow down, to observe more closely, to understand the places you’re passing through, and—perhaps—to leave with an even greater desire to protect these places!
And for the final word, here’s our reporter Lisa:
“From now on, I’ll never see the mountains the same way again. I think there’s a real lack of understanding about this type of environment: the challenges these landscapes face every day, the issues surrounding their preservation, and best practices for hikers. Hiking is incredible, but it’s not a game. And when you understand the rules and the fragility of the world around you, you appreciate its beauty all the more.”
This guide is produced in partnership with the tourism office:
Issue du monde de la communication et des médias, Sophie est Responsable éditoriale chez HOURRAIL ! depuis août 2024. Elle est notamment derrière le contenu éditorial du site ainsi que La Locomissive (de l'inspiration voyage bas carbone et des bons plans, un jeudi sur deux, gratuitement dans ta boîte mail !).
Convaincue que les changements d’habitude passent par la transformation de nos imaginaires, elle s’attache à montrer qu’il est possible de voyager autrement, de manière plus consciente, plus lente et plus joyeuse. Son objectif : rendre le slow travel accessible à toutes et tous, à travers des astuces, des décryptages et surtout, de nouveaux récits.
