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Berlin is often associated with its turbulent history, legendary electro clubs and iconic monuments such as the Brandenburg Gate and East Side Gallery. Yet behind this image of a dynamic cultural capital, the city hides another face: that of a surprisingly green, alternative metropolis that's great fun to explore without a car! Easily accessible by train from France (via the Paris-Berlin European Sleeper night train) Berlin is an ideal destination for a low-carbon city-trip in disconnection mode, with its ubiquitous bike paths, creative neighborhoods and canalside cafés.
For 4 days, Rosalie, our super operations manager at HOURRAIL! has left to test Berlin Here, she gives us her top recommendations for discovering a more local, off-the-beaten-track Berlin.
To reach Berlin from Paris, Rosalie chose the European Sleeper night train. A much gentler and more unusual way to travel than a short-haul flight: you board in the evening in Paris, settle into your cabin, and wake up directly in the German capital the next morning.
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Rosalie also mentions a number of nice details aboard the Cabine Comfort (the option above the Reclining Seat option in terms of budget, with real mattresses and comforters): the small washbasin with mirror in the personal area, the "3 real seats and 3 beds" in the cabin, and the welcome drink offered on departure.
Rosalie in her Cabine Comfort!
When you arrive at Berlin Hauptbahnhof, we strongly recommend that you pick up your Welcome Card directly for transport in ABC zones. "It's great for freedom of transport, says Rosalie. You just have to validate it 1 time on the first public transport you take, and then you just have to carry it with you, no need for validation."
In other words, you don't have to worry about how many tickets you have left, or what kind of transport you can take. And what's more, you'll get discounts and free tickets for activities!
Berlin is particularly easy to discover without a car. Subway, streetcar, bus and S-Bahn are an easy way to reach both central neighborhoods and more outlying green spaces.
Rosalie's tip for the road: remember to carry cash! Thrift shops, markets and small stalls rarely accept cards.
If there's one activity we absolutely recommend, it's the "Berlin on Bike - The Green Tour".
For almost three hours, Rosalie was able to pass through several districts in the north of Berlin such as Wedding, Gesundbrunnen or Pankow through Mauerpark, Humboldthain, Panke river or the Schloss Schönhausen."I fell in love with this activity, stresses Rosalie.
One of the best things about visiting Berlin by bike is that it's so easy to get around. diversity of atmospheres by neighborhood.
"There's a real change of atmosphere as you move through the neighborhoods, which really allows you to discover Berlin off the beaten track." - Rosalie
The walk also allows you to discover much more local and less touristy that you might never see otherwise.
"The guide also shared anecdotes about Berlin's history as well as several green projects being carried out in the city. I highly recommend it!" - Rosalie
When it's hot in Berlin, many of the city's residents join the lakes around the city. "One Berliner even told me it was the city of 80 lakes. says Rosalie. We ask to check!"
Rosalie also tested the Wannsee lake, easily accessible by public transport. "In less than an hour, I was there." She recommends descending to the Nikolassee station accessible by S-Bahn, so you can already enjoy the scenery on the way.
In Wannsee, you can discover a large landscaped beach with the possibility of renting "armchair cabins". Please note: remember to book your ticket in advance when the weather's fine. That way, you won't have to queue so long when it's busy.
Rosalie also recommends bring your own picnic rather than relying on the snacks available on site. "It didn't look like very high quality and there was a line."
Berlin's beaches" - © Rosalie Borde
Rosalie also visited several Berlin must-sees, such as the TV Tower and the Berliner Dom. As for the famous Alexanderplatz tower, her opinion remains mixed: "It's still very touristy."
The TV tower, inside and out - © Rosalie Borde
She recommends the view from Berlin Cathedral where you can enjoy a breathtaking view of central Berlin from the dome!
Berlin's majestic cathedral (Berliner Dom) - © Rosalie Borde
Much anticipated, Kreuzberg (the alternative district often considered a must-see with its local thrift shops) was not Rosalie's favorite neighborhood, although she admits that the fact that we went there on a Sunday probably influenced her feelings (many addresses closed).
The East Side Gallery, on the other hand, is a must-see when visiting Berlin: "A real open-air museum. I was also astonished to see how well maintained it was and how it hadn't fallen into disrepair."
Street Art at East Side Gallery - © Rosalie Borde
During your stay, you may be lucky enough, like Rosalie, to attend the Karneval der Kulturen organized over the Whitsun weekend. "Great atmosphere in the street with the different costumed cultures on parade", she says.
A festive, multicultural event that perfectly reflects Berlin's identity!
As a general rule: find out what's going on in Berlin during your stay: festivals, markets, local traditions... You might be in for a nice surprise!
Rosalie has also tested a one-hour cruise on the Spree. The activity lets you discover the city from another angle, and learn more about Berlin's buildings thanks to audio commentaries available in several languages. A "very nice" option for learning more about the buildings that surround us as we cross."
However, it recommends avoid weekends to enjoy a calmer atmosphere. And his verdict remains nuanced: "Fun to discover the city a little differently, but not an essential either!"
For this stay in Berlin, Rosalie chose to stay with a local thanks to HomeExchange in the Prenzlauer Berg district, not far from the MauerPark. An experience she particularly recommends if you want to discover the city in a different way.
"HomeExchange is a great alternative for being immersed with locals (much more authentic than a soulless airBnB or hotel)." - Rosalie
Moreover, with the Club HOURRAIL! you can take advantage of an exclusive discount on your HomeExchange subscription! It's enough to make your subscription profitable right from your first trip.
Even before her arrival, Rosalie's Berlin host had sent her several local recommendations: restaurants, cafés, neighborhoods and less touristy places to discover. "My host gave me all his good addresses beforehand: enough to discover Berlin like a true local!"
Rosalie also points out the economic advantages of the concept, especially for a stay in a major European capital.
"Having free accommodation for 4 days in a capital city (once the annual membership has been paid) is pretty incredible!" - Rosalie
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Rosalie tried out several addresses offering vegetarian or vegan options during his stay.
To get your day off to a good start, Rosalie recommends this terrace café, a great place to relax before exploring the city.
Set in a charming little courtyard, Cocolo Ramen is a pleasant surprise, with a great vegetarian ramen option!
After a three-hour bike ride, it's the perfect place to take an ice cream break. Rosalie particularly liked the original flavours on offer (special mention for the rhubarb, raspberry and mascarpone ice cream).
It's impossible to leave Berlin without trying a currywurst. Rosalie tested Curry 61, which also offers a vegan version. "A vegan currywurst with vegan mayo: the perfect way to try out the traditional meal without animal products! explains Rosalie.
Located along the canal, this bakery-café was recommended to Rosalie by a Berliner. The verdict? "Very nice atmosphere. Delicious cinnamon rolls!"
"A kebab is a must on any trip to Berlin!" according to Rosalie. The good news is that you can find a delicious vegetarian kebab at K'Ups Gemusekebap. "I'd also been recommended Zagros veggie Kebabs, which is apparently amazing, but you'll have to come back to try it out!"
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Among the places that impressed her during her stay, Rosalie mentions Holzmarkt 25. A creative urban village on the banks of the Spree, with bars, street food stalls and impromptu concerts. The sunset over the river is magical.
A festive evening at Holzmarkt 25 - © Rosalie Borde
Rosalie's tip: when the weather's fine, try to get there early to find a seat by the water - places go fast!
If you like markets, the Arkona Platz market is a very pleasant place with its small stalls and tables, for a quick lunch in a friendly atmosphere.
On Sundays, the neighbourhood also hosts a small flea market while the large Mauerpark market attracts even more visitors.
"You can find lots of different things: small souvenirs as well as old furniture, furnishings & co." says Rosalie.
She also recommends a visit to Mauerpark: "A very large park where you can stroll, relax, barbecue (there are specific areas) in a festive atmosphere."
This trip confirms one thing: there's more to Berlin than its monuments or its reputation as a party capital.
Between bike rides in green neighborhoods, local markets, lakes accessible by public transport, alternative spots along the Spree and numerous vegetarian addresses, the city can also be discovered in simpler, more local moments.
And when you reach it by train, the experience becomes even more coherent: a gentler, more sustainable, car-free city-trip!
Issue du monde de la communication et des médias, Sophie est Responsable éditoriale chez HOURRAIL ! depuis août 2024. Elle est notamment derrière le contenu éditorial du site ainsi que La Locomissive (de l'inspiration voyage bas carbone et des bons plans, un jeudi sur deux, gratuitement dans ta boîte mail !).
Convaincue que les changements d’habitude passent par la transformation de nos imaginaires, elle s’attache à montrer qu’il est possible de voyager autrement, de manière plus consciente, plus lente et plus joyeuse. Son objectif : rendre le slow travel accessible à toutes et tous, à travers des astuces, des décryptages et surtout, de nouveaux récits.
