by
How do we process your data?
We use cookies to improve your browsing experience and personalize our content. They are mainly used for statistical purposes.
When you think of trains in Japan, a few images immediately come to mind: the streamlined nose of a Shinkansen traveling at nearly 300 km/h, trains that arrive right on time, gigantic stations bustling with impressive crowds, and employees bowing to passengers.
But Japan’s rail network is about more than just its legendary punctuality and high-speed trains. In Japan, railways have shaped cities, structured the economy, and transformed train stations into vibrant hubs of activity. They are also deeply rooted in popular culture, from train enthusiasts to ekiben enjoyed on board, panoramic routes, and trains decorated in the colors of famous characters.
So, how did Japan build one of the most fascinating rail systems in the world? Why has the Shinkansen become a global benchmark? And behind this success story, which is often held up as a model, is everything really as perfect as it seems? All aboard for a journey into the heart of Japan’s rail system.
"It's much more than just a means of transportation; it's a cultural institution." - Marie Borgers, travel guide author and former expat in Japan
To understand the Japanese railway system, we must go back to the second half of the 19th century. After more than two centuries during which Japan severely restricted its relations with foreign countries, the country’s opening up beginning in the 1850s marked the start of a spectacular transformation. With the Meiji Restoration in 1868, Japan modernized at a rapid pace and quickly developed new infrastructure.
The railroad will play a central role. In 1872, Japan's first railway line was inaugurated between Shimbashi, in Tokyo, and Yokohama. Within a few decades, the network had expanded across the archipelago, supporting both the country’s industrialization and the growth of its major cities.
Then, on October 1 1964, a few days before the Tokyo Olympics, the country is inaugurating the Tōkaidō Shinkansen between Tokyo and Osaka. The world's first modern high-speed rail network begins operations.
Even today, the Shinkansen remains one of the showcases of Japanese railway expertise. On the Tōkaidō Line, which serves Tokyo, Nagoya, Kyoto, and Osaka, among other cities, trains reach speeds of up to 285 km/h and connect Tokyo to Shin-Osaka in less than two and a half hours on the fastest routes.
The Shinkansen - © Sophie Renassia
But Japan's success in the rail industry isn't based solely on its trains.
This is one of the key features of the Japanese model: historically, some rail companies did not simply lay tracks and run trains. As early as the beginning of the 20th century, private operators developed a particularly ingenious strategy: build a line, then create reasons to use it.
Housing and new neighborhoods are springing up along the rail lines. Around the stations, shops, department stores, offices, and recreational facilities are springing up. Every new resident becomes a potential passenger, and every passenger, in turn, fuels economic activity around the rail system.
This approach has profoundly shaped Japan's major cities. In Tokyo, neighborhoods such as Shinjuku, Shibuya, and Ikebukuro have developed around massive rail hubs. The same phenomenon is occurring in Osaka, Nagoya, and many other cities.
As summarized by Marie Borgers, a travel guide author who spent five years in Japan and whom we had the pleasure of hosting on our podcast :
"Train stations are veritable shopping centers. Much more than just train stations, they are often places to go out."
Restaurants, shops, department stores, hotels, offices… Japan’s major train stations sometimes feel more like cities within a city than mere transit hubs. JR East, in particular, is developing the concept of ekinaka, literally “inside the station”: shops and services directly integrated into the railway facilities.
In the most densely populated areas, the model creates a virtuous cycle: the train brings customers to local businesses, while those businesses, along with housing and services, make the stations and their surrounding neighborhoods even more attractive.
This organization has not always existed in its current form. In the 20th century, a large part of the national rail network was operated by the Japanese National Railways (JNR). However, the state-owned company gradually accumulated a considerable amount of debt and faced significant management challenges.
On April 1, 1987, the JNR was dissolved. Its rail operations were primarily divided among six regional passenger rail companies and one freight company, giving rise to the JR Group. Privatization is, however, a gradual process: the new companies are initially state-owned, and several of them are subsequently privatized over time. Their status today varies by region.
Above all, the JR lines are just one part of the picture: many private companies also operate rail networks, particularly in major metropolitan areas. And their business model often extends far beyond ticket sales. Real estate, retail, hospitality, and services allow the most established operators to diversify their revenue streams.
This approach is extremely effective in densely populated areas, but much harder to replicate in rural areas. We explain all of this in detail in our video breakdown:
The cliché has spread around the world: in Japan, trains are never late. The reality is a bit more nuanced. But when it comes to punctuality, the country remains impressive.
On the Tōkaidō Shinkansen, the average delay is generally measured in a few minutes, even when disruptions caused by natural disasters are taken into account. The line has also maintained an exceptional safety record since it opened in 1964.
But this efficiency isn't based solely on technology. Everything is organized to make travel as smooth as possible: marked lines on the platforms, precisely located doors, frequent service, highly standardized procedures, and rapid cleaning of the trains.
In Tokyo, the overturning of certain Shinkansen trains even gave rise to an expression that has since become famous: the “ 7-Minute Miracle ". In just a few minutes, the crews clean the cars, pick up trash, flip the seats back, and inspect the train before the next passengers board. It’s a true railway dance.
Train Station in Kyoto - © Sophie Renassia
Be careful, however, not to generalize the Shinkansen’s performance to the entire country. As Marie Borgers points out:
"It's true that the Shinkansen trains are absolutely punctual—down to the minute, or even less. That's a little less true for local trains. It's worth mentioning that, too."
In some regions, heavy snowfall, typhoons, or landslides can obviously disrupt traffic.
Stepping onto a Japanese train also means entering a space governed by social norms that are sometimes very different from those we’re used to in Europe. The first of these often surprises travelers: silence.
Conversations are generally kept quiet, and phone calls are avoided in cars. On the platforms, travelers wait in lines marked on the ground before letting passengers off.
Respect for shared space is key. For Marie Borgers, who lived in Japan for five years, this atmosphere is precisely part of the appeal: "We just let ourselves go, drift, and be lulled." She also describes this relationship with silence, precision, respect, and wonder very well in an interview with Benjamin (aka @GlobeTolteur):
On long-distance trains, this tranquility is often accompanied by another ritual: the ekiben. Contraction of eki ("station") and bentō ("boxed meals")—these packed lunches sold at train stations often highlight local culinary specialties. This makes the meal a way to discover a region even before you arrive.
In Japan, time spent on the train isn't just something to be minimized—it can become an integral part of the journey.
While the Shinkansen is the international star of Japan’s rail system, it is just one facet of an incredibly rich railway world. Some trains are designed to turn the journey into a true tourist experience.
%3Fh%3D1000%26fit%3Dmax%26auto%3Dformat&w=3840&q=75)
The Interior of the Shirakami Resort
The Shirakami Resort, in northern Honshū, runs along the Sea of Japan through wild landscapes. In Kyoto, the Sagano Romantic Train winds through the wooded gorges of Arashiyama, which are particularly spectacular in the fall. Others highlight the area’s railway heritage, such as the SL Banetsu Monogatari, pulled by a steam locomotive. In Hakone, the Hakone Tozan Railway climbs through the mountains thanks to several switchbacks that allow the train to navigate the steep terrain.
And for those looking for a more exceptional experience, the luxurious Shiki-shima Train Suite, operated by JR East, offers truly luxurious rail travel featuring suites, gourmet dining, and panoramic cars.
As you can see, in Japan, the train is no longer just a means of getting to your destination—it has become the destination itself.
In Japan, popular culture has also made its way onto the rails. Some trains are decorated with themes from famous franchises such as Pokémon, Hello Kitty, or popular manga and anime. Others highlight a region’s crafts, cuisine, or scenery.
Behind their playful appearance lies a genuine tourism strategy: to attract visitors, create a strong identity for a line, and turn the journey into a memorable experience in its own right. JR East, in particular, operates several tourist trains under the name Joyful Trains, designed with an emphasis on exploring the regions and the onboard experience.
An approach that fits perfectly with slow travel: rather than viewing travel time as a constraint, why not make it one of the highlights of the trip?
This creativity in the railway sector can also be explained by the special place trains hold in Japanese culture. Enthusiasts are sometimes called train otaku : Some take photos of the trains, others study the schedules, record the sounds at train stations, take an interest in the different Shinkansen models, or travel across the country to ride specific lines.
Trains are also ubiquitous in manga, anime, movies, and video games. Even train stations sometimes have their own distinctive soundscapes, thanks to specific melodies that announce departures. Rail travel is therefore as much a part of everyday life as it is of the Japanese collective imagination.
Hakone Station - © Sophie Renassia
From a European perspective, Japan is sometimes held up as proof that a privatized rail network can be efficient, punctual, and profitable all at once. But this view warrants some qualification. In Tokyo and Osaka, rail companies benefit from exceptionally high population densities. Train stations handle massive passenger traffic, which drives business, offices, hotels, and real estate developments.
But apply this model to a rural region with a shrinking and aging population, and the equation changes completely. A small railway line in Hokkaidō serving just a few villages obviously cannot generate the same revenue as a massive rail hub in Tokyo.
Japan's success is therefore due as much to urban density, land-use planning, and the economic diversification of companies as it is to the simple fact that operators are privately owned.
For several decades, Japan has been experiencing an aging population and a decline in its population. In some rural areas—particularly in Hokkaidō, Tōhoku, and mountainous regions—villages are losing residents, and trains are carrying fewer and fewer passengers.
However, maintaining a railroad is expensive, especially in a a country prone to earthquakes, typhoons, and landslides and, in the north, heavy snowfall. Some routes have closed or been replaced by bus services. Others remain in a very precarious financial situation.
But can we judge their usefulness solely on the basis of their profitability? In a remote area, a rail line also provides access to a school, a hospital, a job, or a major city. Its disappearance can increase isolation and further accelerate the exodus of residents. That is the paradox of the model: the least-used lines are precisely the ones that struggle the most to survive economically, even though they can play a vital role for those who depend on them.
Even in a country renowned for its outstanding rail system, maintaining such a high level of performance requires ongoing investment. Japan currently faces several challenges: aging infrastructure in some areas, a declining population, recruitment difficulties in certain sectors, natural disasters, and high maintenance costs.
Of course, this does not mean that its rail system is falling apart. The Shinkansen remains a global benchmark for safety, frequency, and punctuality. But behind this spectacular facade, the situation varies greatly from region to region.
The Shinkansen: A Model of Excellence… in Japan’s Major Cities
And perhaps that is precisely what makes the Japanese case so interesting: it illustrates both the immense benefits that rail can bring when placed at the heart of regional planning, and the challenges that arise when profitability clashes with the need to maintain lines that are essential to local life.
So, is Japan really a train lover’s paradise? When you’re traveling across the country aboard a Shinkansen, enjoying an ekiben while taking in the passing scenery, or boarding a scenic train winding its way through mountains and forests, it’s hard not to think so.
But Japan’s greatest achievement may lie elsewhere. The country realized very early on that railways should not be viewed as isolated infrastructure. Railways shape cities. Train stations become vibrant hubs of activity. Retail businesses enhance the network’s appeal. The trains themselves help promote local regions. And rail travel is an integral part of popular culture.
In other words, to make people want to take the train, it’s not enough for it to be fast. It also has to be convenient, reliable, and integrated into the city… And sometimes it has to make people want to hop on board simply for the pleasure of the ride.
And Japan is not the only country to have developed a rail model from which we can learn. In Europe, Switzerland has developed a very different approach, based in particular on regular service intervals, coordinated connections, and high service frequency.
Article
Switzerland: a railway paradise?
But no model is perfect. Japan, in particular, reminds us that what works in megacities cannot always be replicated in rural areas. Behind the question of profitability, therefore, lies a much more universal question: what value do we place on a train line that doesn’t generate much revenue but continues to connect people and communities? Because, ultimately, that may be where the true strength of rail lies: not just in traveling fast or arriving on time, but in continuing to connect people…
Issue du monde de la communication et des médias, Sophie est Responsable éditoriale chez HOURRAIL ! depuis août 2024. Elle est notamment derrière le contenu éditorial du site ainsi que La Locomissive (de l'inspiration voyage bas carbone et des bons plans, un jeudi sur deux, gratuitement dans ta boîte mail !).
Convaincue que les changements d’habitude passent par la transformation de nos imaginaires, elle s’attache à montrer qu’il est possible de voyager autrement, de manière plus consciente, plus lente et plus joyeuse. Son objectif : rendre le slow travel accessible à toutes et tous, à travers des astuces, des décryptages et surtout, de nouveaux récits.
